Northern Ireland - A Land of Coasts and Castles
from WorldWeb.com Travel Guide

	Coastline in Northern Ireland

Though officially part of the United Kingdom and with many typically British touches, Northern Ireland is just as Irish as the Republic of Ireland - the other part of the wonderful and totally unique island. Any visit to Ireland inevitably provides one of the greatest travel experiences around. Some of the most scenic coastline anywhere is here, lively and prosperous cities, an abundance of history both ancient and modern, and of course the wonderful pubs and culturally-oriented entertainment that all of Ireland is famous for it can all be experienced here in multitudes. The capital city of Belfast is a lively and industrious focal point and is unique in that it is definitely Irish but with a very British influence as well.

HISTORY & POLITICS

Northern Ireland is often referred to as Ulster. Ulster is one of the four ancient provinces of Ireland. Referring to Northern Ireland as Ulster is actually inaccurate, while all of Northern Ireland lies within Ulster, all of Ulster is not in Northern Ireland. Ulster consists of nine counties. The more correct term for the political entity of Northern Ireland is the six counties of Ulster the remaining three are in the Republic of Ireland. The six counties of Northern Ireland are Antrim, Armagh, Down, Fermanagh, Derry and Tyrone, the three counties that lie in the Republic of Ireland are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan.

The most significant difference between the six counties of Northern Ireland and the rest of Ireland stems from the fact that a large proportion of the populace is Protestant and originates from a totally different culture. These Protestants are descendents of mostly Scottish (whose influence is still very evident in the Northern Irish accent) and some English settlers who arrived beginning in the early 1600s. Many of these Protestants are Presbyterian and their faith is markedly different from the large Catholic majority in the rest of Ireland, or even from those Irish that are members of the protestant Church of Ireland (part of the Anglican community and much closer to Catholicism). The industrial revolution affected Northern Ireland much more than the rest of the country and the Protestants certainly benefited economically from this.

In an attempt to appease the Protestant majority of the six counties Northern Ireland remained in the U.K. when the rest of Ireland achieved independence from Britain in 1921. Unfortunately this was not the perfect solution for the still significant Catholic population in the North; in fact in some parts of the six counties Catholics were still a majority. The subsequent events have been well documented.

Despite Northern Ireland’s tragic past, the hopes of peace are higher than they have been for many years. The air of optimism is almost enticing, and this is felt throughout the land. The economy has witnessed a resurgence (similar to that in the Republic) fueled by investment from the European Community and other countries. Northern Ireland’s tragic past need not dissuade visitors. Even when the ‘troubles’ were at their worst, few tourist areas were actual targets. Security is a consideration, but no more than anywhere else these days. Northern Ireland is just a few decades ahead in this regard and security is a well-precisioned and established fact of life, as it is rapidly becoming everywhere else. When it comes to treating visitors to warm and friendly Irish hospitality and showing enthusiasm and pride for their country there are certainly no divisions. Everybody here, regardless of whom they are or what religion they practice, is only too happy to welcome visitors to their country. With the renewed optimism for peace everyone in Northern Ireland is mindful that visitors leave with a positive impression.

CLIMATE

Month Avg. Daily Temperature Average Rainfall Min Max Jan 2°C (36°F) 6°C (43°F) 80 mm Feb 2°C (36°F) 7°C (50°F) 52 mm Mar 3°C (37°F) 9°C (48°F) 50 mm Apr 4°C (39°F) 12°C (54°F) 48 mm May 6°C (43°F) 15°C (59°F) 52 mm Jun 9°C (48°F) 18°C (64°F) 68 mm Jul 11°C (52°F) 18°C (64°F) 94 mm Aug 11°C (52°F) 18°C (64°F) 77 mm Sep 9°C (48°F) 16°C (°F) 80 mm Oct 7°C (46°F) 13 °C (°F) 83 mm Nov 4°C (39°F) 9°C (°F) 72 mm Dec 3 °C (37°F) 7°C (°F) 90 mm

Climate data from BBC Weather

Ireland is not known for long periods of hot and dry weather. Rain is possible at any time of year, but warm sunny days are also feasible and not uncommon in any month. The green lush beauty of the country is only present because of the abundant rainfall. Travellers easily deal with rain by packing a good waterproof coat and shoes and a few sweaters for warmth. An average summer’s day usually brings very comfortable temperatures. Hot uncomfortable weather usually only occurs for a few days every summer. In winter while winds can make things brisk, really cold weather below freezing is rare. A winter with only a couple of light dustings of snow (or often none at all) is the norm. Autumn and spring are always a good time to visit, as there are fewer crowds. In spring the countryside is always particularly attractive and fresh, and in autumn the colours of the many trees and lower prices in many places make both seasons appealing to visitors.

TRANSPORTATION

Two airports serve Belfast. Belfast International Airport is at Aldergrove, 30km from Belfast. This offers service from all over the U.K., Amsterdam and charter flights from Europe, and the U.S. and Canada. Belfast City Airport is closer to downtown Belfast (8km) and offers an increasing number of services from London and U.K. regional airports. Derry Airport also has service from London, Dublin and some U.K. regional airports.

Car ferry and high-speed catamaran service links Belfast and Larne to Stranraer, Cairnryan, Heysham, the Isle of Man and Liverpool. Sailing by ship from the Irish Sea into Belfast Lough is memorable.

Train service in Northern Ireland is operated by Northern Ireland Railways, with lines to the Republic through Newry to Dublin, east to Bangor, northeast to Larne and northwest to Coleraine, Portrush and Derry/Londonderry. Ulsterbus offers long distance bus service within the six counties.

FEATURED ATTRACTIONS

A Busy Shipping Port

Always the industrial workhorse of Ireland, since becoming the capital of Northern Ireland, Belfast obviously has reached even greater prominence in the last century. Today Belfast is undergoing an economic renewal unlike anything seen since the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries when the city was a world centre for

shipbuilding and textiles. The Titanic was constructed at Belfast’s Harland and Wolff shipyards from 1910-1912. Today aerospace in particular commuter irliner production plays a big role in the city’s economy. Belfast has many interesting attractions, but undoubtedly it is the fine collection of Victorian buildings that stands out. Belfast is also noted for its wonderful nightlife, entertainment and great pubs, all with the flair for enjoyment and ‘letting go’ that the Irish are so reputed for.

A good way to visit a great pub, one of the best anywhere, and to sample Belfast’s Victorian heritage it to spend an hour or two at the Crown Liquor Saloon. This place just can’t be beaten for atmosphere. This is the only pub that is owned by Britain’s National Trust and rightly so, to preserve its unrivalled presence. The décor is elaborate and classically Victorian. The outside of the pub is decorated with colourful tiling of a variety of shapes and sizes, Corinthian columns and wrought iron; the interior consists of stained and cut glass, marble, mosaics and molded ceilings.

The bar itself is long and much adorned in keeping with the rest of the pub; the remainder of the pub is divided into semi-private booths known as snugs that are divided by beautifully carved wooden panels. The service bells that imbibers once used to order another round of drinks are still in place (but do not function), and the lighting is by old-fashioned gas mantles. The place fills up very quickly and it’s standing room only after that, so it’s wise to get there as early in the evening as possible. The Crown has achieved worldwide fame largely due to its very popular live webcam.

For a total contrast to bustling Belfast, visitors should devote some time to exploring the magnificent coastline of Antrim. Out of Belfast head northeast to the port of Larne. From here on the road hugs the coast, and looks out at the dramatic vista of the often turbulent Irish Sea and long, wide sandy beaches. Towering cliffs some as high as 600 feet (180 metres) were a challenge to the engineers who constructed the road; at times the road cuts through the cliff formations. Along this route there are many interesting towns and communities, including Bushmills home of the famous Irish whiskey distillery. It’s possible to take a tour of the Old Distillery and of course to sample the merchandise.

Visiting a Salmon Farm

An interesting activity, and somewhat of a thrill is to cross the bridge to the island of Carrick-a-rede. Salmon fishermen construct the bridge on an annual basis in order to reach the fishery on the island. The bridge spans a precarious gorge between the mainland and the island, with the water swirling 80 feet (25 metres) below (although it seems much higher). The bridge is made of rope and though it seems very unstable especially when it sways - it is actually completely safe so long as a reasonable amount of caution is exercised (especially in high wind) and not more than two people cross at a time. When the bridge is open wardens are on duty to ensure that proper precautions are adhered to.

As one crosses the bridge one feels very tempted to turn back, but by the time this almost overwhelming urge takes place, one is already past the point of no return and the only option seems to be to reach the island. After a brief respite on the island where some interesting bird life can be witnessed, as well as the activities of the salmon fishers, its time to turn back and face the return journey across the bridge. The return seems so much easier, and the fear is replaced by exhilaration and a sense of accomplishment.

West of Carrick-a-rede is Northern Ireland’s most famous attraction. The Giants Causeway provides a truly unique and memorable travel experience. Nobody is exactly sure how the Giants Causeway was formed, but scientists say the process involved the unusually rapid and even cooling of lava eons ago. Some prefer the legendary theory as to how the causeway was formed.

	Steps Cut From Volcano Basalt

Whatever the reason for the formation of the Causeway, the result is a honeycomb-like roadway of hexagonal basalt columns that lead from the cliffs far into the sea. A variety of self-guided walks enable visitors to go down to the causeway. The short walk takes 20 minutes from the Visitor’s Centre. A longer but much more interesting walk follows a part of the North Antrim Cliff Path. For the less energetic or for those unable to walk far, mini buses shuttle between the Visitors Centre and the Causeway for a minimal fee. The actual Visitors’ Centre provides interesting details on the geological and legendary aspects of the Causeway.

The historical and battle-scared town of Derry/Londonderry is a must-see on any trip to Northern Ireland. Known for its very friendly and spirited people, Derry has made huge inroads in putting the troubled past well behind it. Derry has been years ahead of the rest of Northern Ireland in the concept of ‘power sharing’ between the two major religions. Little visible signs of the troubles remain. The notorious neighbourhood of Bogside has been revitalized and now has wide attractive boulevards instead of narrow squalid streets. Derry is situated on the River Foyle and lies close to the border with the Republic. Perhaps because of this it seems more traditionally Irish than Belfast, despite Derry’s long history of British settlement.

Legend of Finn Maccool A warrior giant by the name of Finn Maccool fell in love with a female giant called Una who lived on the Isle of Staffa off the Scottish coast. Finn built the causeway to bring Una to Ireland. (A smaller version of the causeway exists on Staffa, so the legend must be true!) Unfortunately Finn had a rival for Una’s affections in the form of Scottish giant Benandonner, and the latter followed them to Ireland. The Scot was much bigger than Finn, so with the complicity of Una, Finn disguised himself as a baby giant. Benandonner figured that if the baby was that big he wouldn’t stand a chance against the father, so beat a hasty retreat back to Scotland destroying the Causeway behind him so that Finn couldn’t pursue him.

Most of Derry’s major sights and attractions lie within or below the ancient City Walls. A good way to orient is to take an organised walking tour of the inner city. The walls still stand intact despite the bloodshed they have witnessed over the centuries. They were originally erected in the 1600s by the London trade guilds that were responsible for the present layout of the city. Actual settlement in Derry commenced about a thousand years earlier when monks led by St. Colmcille founded a monastery. It is from this time that the prefix London was added to the city’s name. Though Londonderry remains the official name, in many cases the London has been dropped. Basically the city is Derry to Irish nationalists and Londonderry to British loyalists. To be politically correct neutral parties now refer to it as Derry/Londonderry so much so that some wags have now dubbed the place “Slash City.”

Now that the military presence has been considerably reduced it is possible to walk all the way around the walls. Placards document various historical events and places of significance along the way. At several points it is possible to climb up and peer over the walls. The best view is between Butcher’s Gate and the British army post. Here one can see Bogside and its colourful political murals painted in defiance of the loyalist side. Behind lies Apprentice Boys Hall (a testimony to a much earlier loyalist defiance). Ancient cannons donated by the London livery companies during the siege of 1689 still point down towards the Bogside.

The excellent and award-winning Tower Museum is dedicated to the history of Derry and portrays this in an informative yet light and pleasurable fashion. One of the highlights here is a photo of Amelia Earhart just after she landed in Derry in 1932. Having just flown solo across the Atlantic, for some reason she mistook Derry for Paris. The picture shows her and her aircraft in a field surrounded by amazed and bemused locals.

St. Columb’s Cathedral was the first Protestant church built in Britain or Ireland after the reformation. The Church of Ireland cathedral is designed in what is known as Planter’s Gothic and has some amazing and rather bizarre woodcarving. The highlight here is the bishop’s throne of 18^th Century mahogany. This is carved in a style called Chinese Chippendale.

The Guildhall has long been a focal point of the loyalist side of Londonderry. Originally constructed in the late 1800s it was burned down in 1908 and was bombed twice in 1972. As the seat of the former loyalist Londonderry Corporation, whose housing and employment policies favoured Protestants, it was subject to much resentment by nationalists. The stained glass here is worth seeing, especially for fans of the British monarchy. The guilds that featured so prominently in the growth of the city are also featured in the windows that line the staircase.

In County Fermanagh, Lough Erne is a long narrow lake divided into upper (the southern part) and lower (northern) sections linked by the River Erne, which carries on across the border with the Republic and exits into Donegal Bay. Lough Erne contains many small islands, many of which contain Celtic and early Christian archaeological sites. These include the sites on Devenish Island. Here there is the site of a 6^th Century monastery and many church and abbey ruins. Ancient gravestones abound and there is a round tower dating from the 12^th Century that is completely intact. The Bishop’s Stone in Killadeas Churchyard is a stone carving from between the 7^th and 9^th centuries and it marks the transition from Celtic religion to Christianity. The face carved on the stove is very Celtic while the bishop complete with crozier is totally Christian.

The eight stone figures of White Island are also of great interest. Nobody is quite sure what they are supposed to represent, but each figure is unique and seem to symbolize something mythological or biblical. They date from the 6^th century and once again they seem to mark the move from Celtic mysticism to Christianity.

A Man At Work In The Ceramics Shop

The village of Belleek on the border with Co. Donegal in the Republic is world renowned for its pottery particularly the various shamrock designs. There are many other designs to suit all tastes, but all have a unique touch that is classically Belleek and very Irish. The town itself does not have that much to offer; despite its relevant fame it seems remote and almost surreal, however the pottery works is one of Ireland’s top attractions. Well-organized tours of the pottery works are available and there is a museum and tearoom.

The lake is also a very tranquil retreat and there are many opportunities for fishing and bird watching. Course, trout and salmon fishing (permit required) are available. A great way to unwind is to take a lake cruise from various points near to the main town of Enniskillen. There are various itineraries available. One boat calls at Devenish Island. It’s even possible to cruise in a replica of a Viking Longboat. Some people prefer to hire a private cruiser and there are many available on a daily or weekly basis. The Lake and the River Erne are connected to the rest of the Irish waterways system and it is possible to sail deep into the Irish Republic from here.