To See the Living History of Belfast
from WorldWeb.com Travel Guide

	Belfast from the top of Queens Tower 1

On the unforgiving northern end of Ireland sits a solitary figure; A city that has endured the winds of time in the bed of a giant. There is a history in Belfast unlike any other, yet vaguely familiar to all. A turbulent past full of violence and triumphs has shaped this city into a compelling, inspiring place where memories live on and the effects of the past continue to play out.

It can feel edifying to stand amongst the ancient streets of Belfast and explore its remarkable past. It is relatively small for a capital city, yet nearly half a million people—that's a third of Northern Ireland's population—call it home. The historic buildings found here, some of which date back to the early 1800s, have a wealth of stories to tell about this great city. They weave tales of a metropolis that was once at the forefront of industrial growth in Britain and Ireland; A saga of famine, fortitude and violence that reaches 500 years into the past. To hear these stories, all one has to do is look upon this city and wonder what those beautiful structures have seen.

	A Map of the Emerald Island 2

THE HISTORY OF A CITY AND NATION DIVIDED

In the early 17th century, Belfast was but a small upstart of a town with a mixed population of about 1,000 Englishmen, Scots and Manxmen. It was a thriving community, founded mostly on exporting goods to England, Scotland and France. Bolstered by trade the community continued to swell, accelerating as it did so.

In these early years, numerous English and French Protestants fleeing religious persecution in their own countries began to settle in this new colony. These immigrants, and others loyal to the Crown, were planted by the English on rich lands while the native Irish were driven to the rocky hinterlands. This sparked numerous rebellions and the beginning of a cycle of violence that would last longer than anyone could imagine.

Famine, or the Great Hunger, devastated all of Ireland from in the late 17th century when the island's crops failed for successive years. Continuing its deadly effect until 1851, it is estimated that nearly one million people died as a result of the famine, and another million fled as refugees to Great Britain, the United States, Canada and Australia.

Even with these terrifying setbacks, Belfast, fueled by its strong port, was declared a city in 1888 and the Capital of Northern Ireland shortly after. At this time the city population had soared to nearly 350,000 people, yet Irish Catholics had become severally outnumbered in their homeland.

With a flourishing economy and a strong political identity, many Irish nationalists began demanding home rule. Civil wars broke out and in 1920, the British granted independence to 26 of the 32 counties in Ireland, partitioning the island into North and South. It is said that this is when The Troubles really began in Northern Ireland.

	The RMS Titanic in Sea Trials 3

With a British identity imposed on the North, the island quickly became divided socially, politically and secularly. Seeing themselves as British, the unionist Protestant majority established itself in the North, while the Catholic nationalists took to the independent South.

The people of Northern Ireland may have been able to adapt to this new situation, but the governing class discriminated against the Irish minority, establishing an oppressive state that denied many basic human rights.

The Troubles are often wrongly portrayed as a religious conflict. More accurately, differences were exploited by political and religious leaders in order to manufacture support for the existing power structure, for reform or to reunify Ireland.

What followed in Belfast was a period of escalating tensions, protests and opposition from all sides. For a myriad of reasons, the city erupted into violence in 1969. In response, Britain imposed direct rule in 1972 and the Prevention of Terrorism Act in '74. Nearly 20 years of low-intensity attacks and ceasefires followed with armed government, republican, and loyalist groups clashing in the streets of Belfast and the region. During this time, an area whose population is only about 1.6 million reported a death toll of nearly 3,500.

	Peace Lines Bisecting Belfast 4

The Good Friday Peace Agreement was accepted in 1998 and has held the peace in Northern Ireland ever since. Belfast is now returning to normal, or as normal as it can be while delegates negotiate the country's future. Already there is talk of the prosperity tourism may bring, and with a major redevelopment plan underway this impressive city is quickly becoming a popular European destination.

Visting Belfast in the 21st Centruy

Belfast is a city reinventing itself. Fueled by the prospect of lasting peace, it has made massive investments in rebuilding its image, creating, in recent years, a boom-town type of energy. A string of hotels and shopping centers have joined the city's prosperous museums and cultural venues, and many contemporary bars and restaurants have joined the slew of Victorian pubs. These and other improvements have earned Belfast international recognition, and for many, have helped with the healing process.

It is important to note that despite the bad publicity caused by The Troubles, visitors to Northern Ireland face no danger, aside from other tourists learning to drive on the left side of the road. In the North the accent is a little thicker, the currency is in pounds not Euros, and all the road signs are in miles, otherwise there is little difference between North and South Ireland.

	Queens University of Belfast 5

See it to Believe it
Belfast is compact, with most points of interest found within walking distance of each other. Stand on almost any corner downtown and it becomes apparent how closely knit the city really is. No matter where one looks, some architectural or historical jewel beckons. This alluring treasury includes City Hall in Donegall Square, the Parliament Buildings in Stormont Park, Queens University of Belfast near the Botanic Gardens, and the Belfast Cathedral on Donegall St.

Northern Nightlife
Thanks to a large student population, the nightlife in Belfast is lively most days of the week. For a taste of whiskey chased by some history, Crown Liquor Saloon, the city's oldest and foremost bar, offers a good introduction to authentic pub-culture in Ireland. Many modern nightclubs, like the Milk Bar Club in Cathedral Quarter, cater to a younger crowd with a flurry of lights, sound and energy. For a compromise between the two worlds, the city's prestigious La Lea is known for blending classic design and modern innovation.

Titanic Quarter
Set within the natural inlet of Belfast Lough, the city has supported and been supported by a pivotal port for hundreds of years. This landmark has harboured some of the West's most notable shipyards and innovative builders. Harland and Wolf, builders of the ill-fated RMS Titanic, were listed among these. On April 2, 1912, this impressive company launched the Titanic, a vessel that forever etched Belfast Lough into history.

The giant mechanical arms, nicknamed Samson and Goliath, used to build the Titanic can still be seen at the Titanic Quarter. This high-profile, waterfront development project is transforming a 185-acre (75-ha) site on the banks of Lagan River into a major social and business meeting place, featuring galleries, theatres, parklands and a marina, all connected to Belfast's city center.

	Samson and Goliath in the Titanic Quarter 6

Victoria Square
The city core has also seen an abundance of new growth. Victoria Square, another urban regeneration project in the heart of Belfast, will feature a large scale urban-living, leisure, retail and working center. Opening in spring 2008, the square will be one of Europe's largest urban regeneration projects and a major millstone in the revitalization of Belfast city.

The Hills of Belfast

Belfast is cradled by rolling mountains that span the region from northwest to southeast. Comprised of a natural mosaic of grassland, heath and bog, these sleeping giants are easily accessible from downtown Belfast. Not only have they always sheltered the city from Ireland's boisterous climate, they also provided a spectacular panoramic view of Belfast and beyond.

Northwest of the city rests Cave Hill, a popular landmark in the area. Because it resembles a sleeping giant, Cave Hill was the inspiration for Jonathan Swift's story, Gulliver's Travels. Belfast Castle is also perched on these majestic hills. Overlooking the city below, this late-12th century castle now offers many services such as a bar and restaurant, an antiques shop and a visitors' center.

Divis and Black Mountains rest in the heart of the Belfast Hills and provide the city's famous backdrop. These hills are home to a host of wildlife and archaeological remains. They are open to the public and feature four popular walking paths.

	Belfast Castle on Cave Hill 7

The Walls Came Down

Though many social and physical barriers have fallen in current times of peace, Belfast, like the whole of Ireland, is still divided. The great city is bisected by numerous barricades, some standing as tall as 30 ft (9 m) high, others no more than a white line painted on the ground. Ironically, these walls are called peace lines because they were originally built to keep a measure of peace between feuding neighborhoods. These days they serve more as reminders than barriers and many support murals containing messages of peace and pleas for an end to war. Once-empty walls spread about the city have also emerged as popular art exhibits, expressing Northern Ireland's history, culture and politics, as well as honoring those who fought and died during the strife.

To fully understand the significance of these paintings and other landmarks, it is best to hear it from someone who lived through The Troubles. Black Cab Tours can offer visitors an inspiring, firsthand account of The Troubles in Belfast, mostly free of bias. For a reasonable price, these independent cab drivers give passengers a personal tour of famous landmarks, sites of notorious bombings and the headquarters of militant factions, all the while explaining the history behind each. It is a fantastic way to find a connection with Belfast, a city trying to cope with its past while working towards a new future.

PHOTO COURTESY A Panoramic View of Belfast; Belfast, ANT, UK A Map of Ireland and Great Britain The RMS Titanic in Sea Trials; Belfast, ANT, UK Thomas Fogg; Peace Lines Bisecting Belfast; Belfast, ANT, UK Queens University; Belfast, ANT, UK Samson and Goliath in the Titanic Quarter; Belfast, ANT, UK Belfast Castle on Cave Hill; Belfast, ANT, UK